When buying a bike it is important that you buy the right bike for you. You need to consider size, budget and the types of cycling you will be doing.
The best way to ensure you get the right bike for you is to buy the bike from a specialist cycle shop. This will increase your chances of receiving expert advice and help in selecting the right bike and you will also have a better chance of good after sales support.
The more you spend on a bike the better it is likely to be and the longer it is likely to last - by investing in (and regularly using) a good bike you will save money on other types of travel.
Size
It is vital that you buy the right size bike for your height. The best way to do this is to visit a specialist bike shop and seek the assistance of an expert. Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative have produced the following guide which gives a rough idea of how to ensure you choose the right size bike:
- When you straddle the bicycle frame with your feet flat on the ground, you should be able to clear the top tube (crossbar).
- If you like to sit upright, go for the biggest frame that still allows top tube clearance.
- If you prefer more athletic riding, particularly mountain biking over rough terrain, you are safest with maximum clearance, so plump for the smallest possible frame - as long as you can still stretch your legs and the bike isn't so short that it cramps your riding style.
- Although every manufacturer has their own sizing quirks, a bike's frame size is based on the length of the seat tube (the tube that the seatpost goes into).
- You can get a rough idea of the size of frame you require if you measure your inside leg - crotch to floor - then subtract 9" / 23cm or 10" / 25cm for a road bike (or a mountain bike used as a road bike) or 12" / 30cm for an athletically-ridden mountain bike. Hence a rider with a 32" / 81cm inside leg who owns a 23" / 58cm road bike usually requires a 20" / 51cm mountain bike.
Top Tube Clearance Guidelines
- Mountain bike 3”-5” / 7-13cm
- Racing bike 2”-4” / 5-10cm
- Hybrid bike 0.5”-3” / 1-8cm
- Touring bike 1”-2.5” / 2-6cm
Once You Have The Bike - Making it fit
Spending a little time adjusting the saddle and bars to fit your unique body shape can transform a bicycle from an instrument of torture into a vehicle of blissful comfort.
There are no iron rules re fitting your bicycle to your body but here are a few pointers:
Saddle Height
- Many new or returnee bicyclists set the seat low enough so they can get both feet flat on the ground while sitting on the saddle. Although this might seem logical, cycling with the saddle this low inhibits your leg power and stresses the knees. The result - riding takes 10 times more effort than needs be.
- Your saddle should be high enough so that your leg almost (but not quite) fully extends at the bottom of each pedal stroke. Riding with the saddle this high allows you to spin the pedal more comfortably and efficiently. To check for correct leg extension, position the right hand pedal crank at its furthest extension - i.e. in line with the frame's seat tube (the tube that the seatpost goes into) so the lower pedal is at 5 o'clock. Wearing your normal cycling shoes, your heel should be able to touch this pedal with your leg straight but not locked out. That way, when you position your feet in the classically correct position, with the balls of the feet over the pedal spindle, your knee will be slightly bent.
- You can raise or lower the saddle height by loosening the seat binder bolt and moving the seatpost up or down. Be careful not to raise the seatpost above the minimum insertion mark etched on the seatpost. If you need your saddle higher than the post allows, get a longer seatpost. Be aware that seatposts come in different diameters - anything from 24 to 32mm in 0.2mm steps - so check the diameter before ordering one, or bring the old seatpost along to the shop so we can measure it with the vernier callipers.
- If you are new or just returning to bicycling, a correctly-positioned saddle feels a long way off the ground - especially when you stop. Don’t worry, you’ll soon learn to balance with your strongest foot perched on one pedal, and the other on tiptoes on the ground. This balancing act quickly becomes second nature to almost every cyclist. If this position feels precariously high, by all means start off with the saddle an inch lower till you gain confidence on your new bike. Just remember that it’s fatiguing to ride with a saddle too low, so as soon as you get the hang of your new bike, raise that saddle. Your knees will be grateful.
- Remember to secure the seat binder bolt or quick release after adjusting the saddle height.
Handlebar Height
Again, handlebar height is down to personal preference. Low bars are more sporty and promote a fast aerodynamic riding style. Flexible young riders (and flexible old yoga masters) usually prefer low bars. If you prefer a more sedate riding style with minimal neck, wrist and back strain, you'll probably want higher bars. A good place to start is with the bars the same height as the saddle. If you prefer a more athletic 'head down' position, lower the bars. If you prefer a 'head up' riding position raise the bars.
To get advice on the right bike for you or to get assistance on how to adjust your bike to get optimum riding position refer to Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative’s website, Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative, or call on 0131 228 5900.